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Home Science Travel

Reversing Falls: Saint John’s River That Runs Backward

Witness the incredible battle between river and ocean at Saint John’s Reversing Falls, where tides shape the landscape twice daily.

by Curious Don
April 22, 2025
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Growing up near one of nature’s rarest phenomena, I somehow never truly saw it. The Reversing Falls in Saint John, New Brunswick — where a mighty river battles the world’s highest tides and reverses direction twice a day — had always been part of the background of my life. It wasn’t until a recent visit, armed with fresh curiosity and a drone, that I finally experienced the raw power, surprising beauty, and scientific wonder hidden in plain sight. In this story, I invite you to walk with me through the streets of Saint John, to the roaring banks of the river, and deep into the science and spirit of one of Canada’s most extraordinary natural wonders.

Rediscovering My Own Backyard

Growing up in New Brunswick, and even spending several years living in Saint John, I never gave much thought to the Reversing Falls. They were simply there — a furious, foaming stretch of water framed by the industrial silhouette of the Irving Paper plant. Despite their dramatic name and geological significance, they faded into the background of my everyday life.

But that changed one cool evening in May.

View of the Reversing Falls from Fallsview Park at low tide, showing the Saint John River rushing toward the Bay of Fundy with the Irving Paper mill in the background.
The Saint John River floods seaward in a torrent of whitewater at low tide, as seen from Fallsview Park. The Irving Paper mill stands as a reminder of the area’s industrial legacy.

Staying downtown for a few days, I decided to finally make time to see the Reversing Falls properly. Rather than drive, I laced up my hiking shoes and set out on foot, weaving through Saint John’s historic streets. The city, with its brick facades and sea-salted air, revealed itself slowly. I passed the stately New Brunswick Museum, sadly closed for renovations, and wandered through neighborhoods I’d never paused to explore.

With each step, the city felt less like a place I knew and more like a place waiting to be rediscovered.

Quick Facts about the Reversing Falls

  • Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
  • Phenomenon: River reversal due to Bay of Fundy tides
  • Falls Height: Up to 3–4 meters (10–13 feet) change during peak tides
  • Best Time to Visit: Around low or high tide for peak effects
  • Highlights: Whitewater rapids, tide reversal, abundant seabird activity
  • Accessibility: Free viewing areas at Fallsview Park, Skywalk Saint John, and bridges
  • Special Tip: Witness the “slack tide” — the calm before the tide reverses

A First Look at Nature’s Power

When I arrived at Fallsview Park in the early evening, the scene before me stopped me in my tracks.

The tide was low, and the Saint John River, free of the ocean’s intrusion, poured seaward in a thunderous display of raw energy. Rapids boiled and roared over jagged rocks, flinging mist into the air. Seabirds — thousands of them — wheeled and shrieked above the froth, diving with acrobatic precision to snatch fish from the churning waters.

I sat on a rocky ledge, the roar of water in my ears, and watched the spectacle unfold. It wasn’t just a river — it was a living, breathing entity.

Rocky shoreline at Reversing Falls Park in Saint John, New Brunswick, overlooking the reversing river and teeming birdlife.
A rocky outcrop along the shore at Reversing Falls Park, where I sat and watched the Saint John River battle the tides, surrounded by a bustling world of seabirds and rushing water.

Suddenly inspired, I unpacked my DJI Mini 3 Pro drone and sent it soaring low over the rapids. Watching the live footage was like peering into another world: waves leapt skyward, seabirds darted past in flashes of feathers, and the drone skimmed close enough to feel the chaos without touching it. Goosebumps rose on my arms.

For the first time in my life, the Reversing Falls were more than background noise. They were alive.

Witnessing the Great Reversal

The magic, however, was just beginning.

Lingering on the rocky shore, I waited as the Earth’s greatest tidal system began to flex its muscles. Slowly, almost imperceptibly, the river’s forward momentum faded. The thunderous roar softened into a rumbling whisper. The Saint John River paused, as if catching its breath.

For a few haunting minutes, the river stood still — neither flowing to the sea nor yet retreating inland. The birds seemed to notice too, their frenzied dives giving way to lazy circles over the water.

Then, with the inevitability of the moon itself, the ocean surged.

A subtle ripple gave way to a relentless push. The water turned, flowing upstream, as the Bay of Fundy’s monstrous tide overwhelmed the river. Rapids reformed in reverse, seawater battling freshwater for dominance.

To witness this moment — a river reversing before my eyes — was deeply humbling. It felt like glimpsing a secret rhythm of the planet, hidden in plain sight.

As dusk settled over Saint John, I finally turned back toward the city, carrying with me a profound new reverence for the unseen forces that shape our world.

The Science Behind the Reversing Falls

At first glance, the Reversing Falls might seem like an ordinary set of powerful rapids. But they are, in fact, a masterpiece of geological and tidal interplay.

The Saint John River, stretching 673 kilometers from northern New Brunswick, meets the Bay of Fundy through a narrow gorge carved over eons into ancient Precambrian rock. This opening was later deepened and sculpted by powerful glacial movements during the last Ice Age, about 10,000 years ago, leaving behind the dramatic passage we see today.

This extraordinary geologic history is one reason the Reversing Falls is included in the Stonehammer UNESCO Global Geopark — the first of its kind in North America. The park encompasses over a billion years of Earth history in and around Saint John, and the falls stand out as a dramatic example of how tectonics, glaciers, and tides have shaped the landscape over deep time.

When the tide is low, the river flows normally out to sea. But as the Bay of Fundy’s tide — the highest in the world — surges inland, it becomes a rising wall of water.

At peak flood, the ocean pushes back against the river’s flow, forcing it upstream. This creates the phenomenon known as the “reversal,” where the river literally changes direction. At the turning point, called “slack tide,” the river and ocean are in a delicate standoff, and the waters lie eerily still.

This battle happens not once, but twice every day.

Complicating things further, the riverbed’s jagged rock formations cause intense turbulence during the reversal, making the whitewater rapids even more dramatic. Add to this the migration of anadromous fish like shad and gaspereau, and the falls become a magnet for wildlife — and for curious science travelers.

The Bay of Fundy’s astonishing tidal forces don’t just shape the Reversing Falls. They also create other remarkable phenomena across the region, such as the daily tidal wave of the Moncton Tidal Bore and the swirling Old Sow Whirlpool in Passamaquoddy Bay. Together, these natural wonders showcase the immense power and influence of the world’s highest tides.

The Long History of the Reversing Falls

Long before Saint John grew into Canada’s first incorporated city, the Reversing Falls were a vital and sacred place.

The Indigenous Wolastoqiyik (Maliseet) people, whose name for the river — Wolastoq — means “beautiful river,” have lived along its banks for thousands of years. They witnessed and revered the river’s dramatic tidal surges long before European settlers arrived. The falls were considered a place of power, a meeting of forces, and part of the living landscape.

When French explorer Samuel de Champlain visited the Bay of Fundy in the early 1600s, he recorded the astonishing tides but likely never ventured up the Saint John River far enough to see the reversal firsthand. Later, in 1785, Saint John was officially founded by Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution, and the river became a key transportation and trade artery.

Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, the Reversing Falls became not just a natural wonder, but an industrial workhorse. Sawmills, shipbuilding yards, and eventually pulp and paper mills lined the waterfront, taking advantage of the river’s energy and access to the Atlantic.

Today, even with the backdrop of industry, the raw drama of the falls endures. Generations have stood where I stood — on rocky shores or iron bridges — watching the eternal struggle between river and sea, a story older than any city.

The Living Energy of the Reversing Falls

Beyond its swirling waters and shifting tides, the Reversing Falls are alive with a thriving ecosystem, shaped by the constant tug-of-war between river and sea.

Each spring, the Saint John River becomes a crucial corridor for migratory fish, including gaspereau (alewives), shad, and striped bass. Drawn inland to spawn in freshwater after living most of their lives in the ocean, these fish must navigate the turbulent rapids of the Reversing Falls — a brutal gauntlet that tests their strength and timing.

Where there are fish, of course, there are birds.

When I visited, the scene was electric: hundreds, if not thousands, of seabirds filled the air above the falls. Cormorants plunged headfirst into the foam, disappearing and resurfacing with flashes of silver in their beaks. Gulls hovered and cried above the chaos, while ducks bobbed and dived along the riverbanks. It was a frenzied feeding ground, a wildlife spectacle hidden within the industrial edges of Saint John.

Even seals are known to appear during peak fish migrations, riding the tidal surges with effortless grace as they hunt in the shifting waters.

The meeting of salt and freshwater here also supports a rich variety of plankton and small invertebrates, forming the foundation of a remarkably productive food web — all sustained by the relentless pulse of the tides.

In every way, the Reversing Falls are more than a spectacle of water and rock. They are a living, breathing engine of life.

Practical Travel Tips

Here are some practical tips I picked up during my visit to the Reversing Falls to help you make the most of your experience, from timing your arrival with the tides to finding the best viewpoints along the river.

  • Check the Tide Charts: Timing your visit is crucial. Plan to arrive about an hour before low or high tide for maximum drama. Refer to the Saint John tide chart to the latest times and height.
  • Top Viewing Points: Fallsview Park offers great free views. The Skywalk Saint John provides a thrilling glass-bottom experience right over the rapids.
  • Getting There: From downtown, it’s about a 30-40 minute scenic walk or a quick cab ride.
  • Dress for the Elements: Even in summer, the area can be breezy and damp. Layer up and bring a waterproof jacket.
  • Stay Safe: The rocks around the falls are dangerously slippery. Stay within designated viewing areas.
  • Photography Tip: Visit during golden hour (just after sunrise or before sunset) for breathtaking lighting. Bring a drone for spectacular aerial shots, but be mindful of local regulations.

Pro Tips for the Science Traveler

If you’re keen to dive into the science behind tidal reversals and get even more out of your experience at the Reversing Falls, these expert tips will enrich your visit.

  • Understand the Tidal Cycle: The tide cycle is roughly 12.5 hours. Seeing both an outflow and a reversal in one day deepens the experience.
  • Birdwatcher’s Paradise: Bring binoculars — seabirds flock here in staggering numbers, and seals sometimes pop up too.
  • Study the Rock: Look closely at the exposed rocks near the falls. They tell a story of ancient continental collisions that formed much of eastern North America.
  • Expand Your Exploration: Saint John is part of the Stonehammer UNESCO Global Geopark — the first geopark in North America. Fossil hunting and geological tours abound in the region.
  • Patience Pays Off: The subtle shift of the tides is slow and powerful. Allow yourself time to sit, watch, and feel it happen.

Rediscovering Wonder in the Familiar

Visiting the Reversing Falls reminded me that sometimes the greatest wonders are the ones we’ve passed by without seeing. Nature’s most powerful dramas often unfold quietly, waiting for someone curious enough to stop and watch.

In a city I thought I knew, standing at the edge of a river battling the sea, I found new wonder, new respect, and a connection to the raw forces that shape not just landscapes — but life itself.

I’ll never cross those bridges the same way again.

Don Trynor standing on a rocky ledge, observing the Saint John River’s reversal at the Reversing Falls in Saint John, New Brunswick.
Don Trynor, author of Curious Don, watches the Saint John River’s flow slow and begin its reversal as the Bay of Fundy tide surges inland at the Reversing Falls in Saint John, New Brunswick.
Tags: Bay of FundyBay of Fundy TidesEco-TourismFundy TidesGeological WondersHydrodynamicsNature PhotographyOutdoor PhotographyReversing FallsRiver EcologyScience TravelStonehammer GeoparkTidal ReversalTravelTravel tipsUNESCO Global Geopark
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Curious Don

Curious Don

I’m Don Trynor, also known as Curious Don – a science traveler with a passion for discovering the science behind the world’s wonders. I’ve journeyed across six continents and over 40 countries, chasing solar eclipses, unraveling scientific mysteries, and exploring extraordinary places that blend discovery and adventure. Join me as I uncover the stories of our planet, inspiring curiosity and wonder along the way!

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